There are plenty of alternative activities in
Davos and we are able to offer this guide and
reports from those who have enjoyed the walking
and sight-seeing available in and around Davos
and Klosters.
You will need a ‘Topcard’ for access
to all the many cable cars, railways and skilifts
in the area so it is possible to enjoy the panoramic
mountain views and rendezvous with skiers for
gluhwein or rösti at one of the many mountain
restaurants.
Davos offers museums, both historical and artistic,
as well as concerts and winter sports events.
It also has a very interesting Avalanche Centre
It is not difficult or expensive to lunch at Sertig
or even take a day trip to St Moritz and Bergun.
Details are in this booklet for things to do and
see there.
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OK. So you finally made
it to Davos with past and present Dragons, ski-mad
parents and over-enthusiastic teachers. Day one
was really tough. No-one mentioned the ritual
victimi sation of beginners: only they are required
to walk from the bus (in the most ill-fitting
boots) to the Bunda beginners slopes, while the
'big boys’ make their fun ski/lunch/skiwasser
arrangements. Only they are required to wear their
ankles raw repeatedly climbing up that 'gentle'
incline. Only they appear to have found hurting
muscles where no muscle has ever been before.
Whatever will tomorrow bring?
Well, it can get better. Consider:
1. Those muscles get a bit worse on day two, start
getting stronger by day three, and by day four
you’re almost comfortable!
2. You don't actually have to ski all day every
day.
3. If you joined the childrens' beginners class
on day one, try (maybe with another adult beginner)
having a private lesson on day two. From then
on, practise or have lessons to suit you, remembering
that your holiday can have many dimensions.
4. Give yourself a little variety. How about skiing
for half a day and then:
Take the train to Schatzalp, enjoy a delicious
lunch on the balcony with outstanding views, walk
up to the Strela Alp for a Ramba Samba (don't
ask, just drink) then follow the walkers’
path all the way down.
Visit the Kirchner Museum and enjoy the art exhibition
or the Museum of Toys opposite.
Take a bus to Monstein and there visit the delightful
little seventeenth century church, have lunch,
snacks or drinks in the cosy Veltlinerstubli Restaurant
and then follow the walk route from the village.
Take the bus to Davos Dorf station, walk on about
150 metres and simply walk around the frozen lake.
Ice Skating – everyday from 10.00 to 16.00
Visit the Avalanche Centre in Davos
Dress yourself very warmly and take a sleigh ride
from Davos Platz (you can book in advance).
Take the train to KIosters and explore the Royals'
favourite ski resort. Or have an apfelstrudel
at Schneiders, or go skating... have a sauna...
a massage… go tobogganning in Preda or visit
Bergun…
Renee Aronson
January 1997 (Updated 2001)
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Trains from Davos
Platz to Preda, changing (no wait) at Filisur.
The journey, which is spectacular, takes one hour
or sometimes more, each way.
Toboggans can be paid for with your train ticket,
including a refundable deposit. You pay at Davos
but collect the toboggans at Preda. It is also
possible to hire the toboggans on arrival at Preda,
either at the station or by the hotel at Preda.
If you have a visitors pass you will be able to
get your railfare from Davos to Preda for half
price.
Those of us tobogganning took one descent and
found that sufficient but it is possible to have
more. The train fare up the top again would be
an additional cost. We finished up at the charming
old village of Bergun. The cost of one descent
including the train ride in 2000 was CHF36 with
an additional CHF50 deposit per person.
The descent, the longest
toboggan ride in Europe, is about 5 kilometres.
It is on a closed mountain road, and not too hairy!
We took about 25 minutes for the descent, quite
a bit of which was spent laughing helplessly.
Presumably if conditions were icy it would be
both quicker and a little more dangerous but we
thought less so than the Davos run.
It is probably of no interest to Dragon Ski Club
members to hear that excellent Schnittelcafes
(definitely “mit”) are served in the
hotel at the start of the run and Bergun boasts
several restaurants in which one can while away
the time not unpleasantly. The Fuschena, originally
a medieval smithy, is recommended by us all for
lunch. The menu is good and the service is friendly.
Bergun is a particularly attractive old village
with interesting buildings and houses, a village
square and so forth. In Bergun there is a small
but interesting museum and a delightful Church.
The Church is well worth a visit.
All those who have sampled
these delights rate the entire expedition a 5-star
experience.
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It is true that the
birds you will see in Davos around New Year are
the birds you would expect to see in any northern
or central European town in winter: Blackbirds,
Chaffinches, Great Tits, House Sparrows and Carrion
Crows.
But Davos is no ordinary town, being at 5000 ft
the highest in Europe; and so the birds which
are more in evidence are winter birds, birds of
snows. Alpine Choughs – the same species
that will be the last one you see as you make
your ascent of Everest – are everywhere
in the town, particularly in the morning, sitting
on rooftops, frequently calling the “kyah”
call which is so high for a relatively large bird.
You will also see them higher up around ski restaurants
and wheeling around the crags. Smaller birds are
also increasingly attracted to the ski restaurant:
four to six Alpine ascentors regularly forage
below the deck of Parsenhutte and one was also
resident at Conterser Schwendi, known as “Headquarters”
in 1998.
Snowfinches can be seen anywhere, out on the slope
or around the ski restaurants. Paul Baker and
I watched half a dozen feeding on seeds on the
windowsill of Gotschnagrat on 7 January this year
only three feet away from us. These were seen
again in january 2001
Ptarmigan, I have seen once: a party of eight
flew over us as we skied down the Gotschna to
Klosters in 1998.
In the woods there are Crested Tits (you can hear
their trilling calls more often than you see them)
as well as Firecrests. The speckled brown Nutcrackers
are all around – the best spot I find is
from the chairlift at Schatzalp just as you set
off. Jays are also around and Ravens – up
to four at a time are a near certainty flying
over calling as you sip your elevenses outside
Headquarters.
Birds of prey are few but you will see many Buzzards
– some very pale – sitting on fences
and posts as the bus makes its way up the valley
from Zurich, almost as far as Klosters. And I
have seen Sparrow hawks in the late afternoon
just above the tree line near Schatzalp.
I have yet to see a Golden Eagle – Buzzards
are often mistaken for them – but I am sure
they are not far away. You may be the first to
see one on a Dragon Ski Trip! In 2000 and 2001
we were told that the eagles can be seen close
to the Rhinerhorn.
Richard Price
March 1999 (Updated January 2001)
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Davos offers 80 kms
of well kept walking trails. Hiker’s trails
are marked in green on the piste map. Explore
them at will. One word of warning though: the
routes as shown on the map do not always correspond
with reality. If you want a more detailed map
c. Ordinance Survey, try the shop Migros Mart
(MM), five minutes walk from the hotel. A single
ski pole used as a walking stick (obtainable from
Peter Frei) will keep you on your feet on the
icy bits; as will snow and ice spikes (from MM)
which can be attached to your footwear.
Particularly recommended are walking on the Strela
and in the Teufi and Sertig Dorfli valleys. Please
report other routes you recommend from experience.
Strela: Either walk up or take the cable railway
to Schatzalp. Then take the circular route (via
many hairpin bends) above Schatzalp through the
fir forest. Keep your eyes open for black squirrels,
mountain hares, foxes, nutcrackers and choughs.
You then deserve to sit on the sun terrace at
the Strela Alp Restaurant. Good food with wonderful
views.
Teufi Valley: You can walk all the way from the
hotel following the green hiking trails or take
the bus (No 13 from Bahnhof Platz; timetable essential)
for part of the way. You will find the restaurant
at Teufi friendly and quieter as it is only used
by cross country skiers and walkers. If some days
have passed since the last snowfall, you will
be able to continue walking above Teufi to Durrboden
by following in the tracks of farmers’ skis.
You will also be able to walk on the other side
of the valley, which is not marked as a hiking
trail. But again, wait for several days after
the last snowfall.
Sertig Dorfli Valley: You can try a similar combination
of walking and taking the bus (No 8 from Bahnhof
Platz). As the buses are bi-hourly. Obtain a timetable
from hotel reception or from the tourist information
office. There is a good restaurant at Sertig Dorfli.
The menu is good and the wines are excellent
Pischa: Molly McDonald recommends the walk on
Pischa. Go up in the cable car and then follow
the walk to the top. Meet friends for lunch back
at the cable car.
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If you buy a ‘Topcard’
you clearly have access to all the views via the
many cable cars, cable railways, chairlifts etc.
A thoroughly agreeable ride is the gondola between
Weissfluhjoch and Schifer. Very long with amazing
views. Going down you will probably have the gondola
to yourself. As a further incentive, at the Schifer
end above Klosters are three good restaurants
. The one on the right as you get off the gondola
is a favourite for Dragon non Skiers. A good place
to arrange to meet friends who are skiing for
lunch.
Sleighing
The children especially love this. The horse-drawn
sleighs can be found at Davos Platz station (Bahnhof
Platz). Be prepared by wearing as many layers
as possible, particularly on the top half (legs
are covered with blankets). The cheapest ride
is to Clavadel (CHF55 in 2000) which took about
45 minutes. The ride to Teufi was costed at CHF100.
The drivers are happy to stop for the taking of
photographs.
Culture Vulturing
There are a number of galleries and Museums in
Davos. Particularly recommended for Dragons of
the female variety (although male Dragons have
been known to enjoy it too) is the Doll and Toy
Museum (adults CHF6; children CHF3 1998). It is
close to Schneider’s (apres museum?). The
museum has a small but exquisite collection. The
Kirchner Museum has wonderful paintings from the
period when Kirchner lived in Davos and is recommended
for art lovers.
NB See the information sheet on Davos for the
addresses, entrance fees, winter opening times
and descriptions of other local galleries and
museums.
Day Tripping to Klosters
Use your travel pass to take the train to Klosters.
The Tourist Information Office there will provide
you with information generally and give you a
map of hiking trails.
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Viewing is highly
recommended!
St Moritz is smaller, more compact and has more
attractive buildings than Davos. But it is somewhat
self-conscious. Bond Street meets Switzerland
(as you might imagine). You may observe a higher
population of fur coats to the square mile. St.
Moritz is higher (1800m) and therefore colder
than Davos and the frozen lake is a thoroughfare
for people and horse-drawn sleighs.
Getting there: The journey is special in itself
as the railway threads its way through a number
of valleys and passes. Try to take a Snowliner
Train. Go to the Tourist Information Office two
bus stops along from our hotel for a train timetable.
The trains run hourly. Do remember to take your
Davos travel pass with you when you buy your return
ticket as it reduces the fare from CHF55 to CHF40
(2001). The journey takes about an hour and a
half with a change of trains at Filisur where
the wait is about 10 mins.
On arrival: Obtain a map of St Moritz from either
the Information Office at the Station, or from
the Tourist Information Office (up the hill in
the centre of St Moritz) for a more interesting
and brightly coloured version.
Food: As a first refreshment stop, try Confiserie
Hanselmanns (near the Tourist Information and
above Badrutt’s Palace Hotel). More old
fashioned and gentler than Schneiders.
Other refreshment stops will depend upon your
pocket and appetite. There are a number of five
star hotels: the Palace Kulm and Carlton. Go there
for lunch or, more cost effectively , for tea
in grand surroundings. The Palace also has a very
good swimming pool (and sauna). Less expensive
restaurants can be found at the Monopol, Schweizerhof
and Steffani hotels. Also worth mentioning are
the Cascade and Valentin restaurants.
If you want lunch with a view, try “La Marmite”
at Corviglia (go to the cable railway around the
corner from the Tourist Information Office and
buy a ticket to the second station). It is one
of the best mountain restaurants in the Alps (the
menu uncludes fresh truffles and a selection of
caviar). If you want a view without lunch, get
off the cable railway at the first station (Chantarella:
CHF6 1998) and walk down to St. Moritz. This takes
about 40 mins and is well worth the effort.
Things to see: The leaning tower of St. Moritz
(yes there is one) can be found near the Kulm
Hotel, as can the start of the Cresta Run. The
Cresta Run is open daily from 8.00am to 12.30pm.
Unfortunately the run is
SOME THOUGHTS ON POSSIBLE PASTIMES AND OUTINGS
not available to day trippers and is not open
to women in any event. Races are held on Wednesdays
and at weekends. Other days are practice days.
If you are interested in the region’s carved
wooden furniture and interiors you should really
visit the Engadine Museum (adults CHF5, children
CHF2.50 1998); open week days 10am–12pm
and 2pm–5pm The house containing the exhibition
was built in quintessential Engadine style in
1905.
Karen Bright
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WINTERSPORT MUSEUM
at Promenade 43. Opening times: Tue/Thu/Sat 4.30
– 6.30 p.m. Admission: 5 SFr (children 3
SFr). Skiing in Davos goes back to 1873. In 1893
the Branger brothers and Sir Arthur Conan-Doyle
were famously intrepid. Skis and bindings from
this period can be seen, together with those up
to the present day. There is an impressive collection
of sledges (remember the Davos sledge of your
youth?), but rather a lot of Ice Hockey stuff
that is not so likely to appeal. This is a twenty-minute
visit rather than anything longer, for most people.
HEIMATMUSEUM DAVOS (LOCAL MUSEUM) at Museumstrasse
1. Opening times: Wed/Fri/Sun 3 – 5 p.m.
Admission: 5 SFr (children 2 SFr). This is about
200m east of Davos Dorf Railway station. It’s
a bit of a trek, but is by far the most interesting
of the museums in Davos. There is an extensive
collection of objects and furniture from everyday
life in an impressive Jenatsch, old patrician
house, which is worth seeing on its own. A new
addition there is a shoemaker’s workshop.
Why is it hardly ever open, you might ask…
Good question!
KIRCHNER MUSEUM again on the Promenade. Opening
times: Daily 10 – 6 p.m. Admission: 10 SFr
(children 5 SFr). Ernst Ludwig Kirchner (1880-1938)
lived in Davos from 1917 until his death and Davos
has the most extensive collection of his work.
MEDECINE MUSEUM at Platzstrasse 1. Opening times:
Thu 5 – 7 p.m. Admission: 3 SFr (children
2 SFr). To be found just above the Promenade,
very close to the Platz bus stop opposite Migros.
Again just worth a quick visit, although the lack
of English translations leaves a lot to the imagination
with some of the instruments!
TOY MUSEUM at Promenade 83. Opening times: Sunday-Friday,
2 – 6 p.m. Admission: 6 SFr (u.12 children
4 SFr) A collection of historical toys, dolls,
dolls’ houses and a collection of 18th –
20th century miniatures. Includes a model of the
Berghof sanatorium featured in Thomas Mann’s
Magic Mountain.
BIBLIOTHEK DAVOS (Public Records Office) at Promenade
88. Opening times: Dienstag 4 – 8 p.m.,
Monday-Friday 3 – 7 p.m., Samstag 9 –
11 a.m. Admission free. Run by the very friendly,
English-speaking Dr. Timothy Nelson. Situated
in what was the English quarter, opposite the
English church in what was a British Consulate
building. Only for those interested in the history
of the English in Davos.
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The Swiss aren’t great eaters out and for
many years have confined their taste to various
combinations of potato, cheese, ham and egg (and
you are still lucky if you can get anything but
a ham and/or cheese sandwich at Zurich airport!).
However, things are beginning to look up in Davos,
and here are some suggestions for those who wish
to eat out in the evening.
These places are reasonably easy to get to, in
Davos:
VELTLINERSTUBE, HOTEL BAHNHOF-TERMINUS at 7270
Davos Platz (tel: 081 414 97 97). I hear this
is good, but have no first-hand experience –
as yet!
BISTRO GENTIANA at Promenade 53 (tel: 081 413
56 49). Top place for fondues, snails and good
desserts. Bus to Platz and walk c. 100yds.
RESTAURANT/PIZZERIA AL PONTE at Mattastrasse 11,
7270 Davos Platz (tel: 081 413 24 00). Closed
on Mondays. Not so easy to get to as some…
RESTAURANT SCHATZALP at the top of the Schatzalpbahn
(tel: 081 415 51 51). Dramatic view, overlooking
Davos. You may well be able to recoup the cost
of the funicular – ask.
CAFÉ RESTAURANT SCHNEIDER at Promenade
68 (tel: 081 420 00 00). Excellent tea-time spot,
but also good at other times of the day. Take
the bus to the Schatzalpbahn stop and walk on
c. 100 yds.
These are a little further afield:
RESTAURANT ISLEN at 7270
Davos Platz (tel: 081 413 13 10). Lovely old Swiss
building, dating back to 1724. Local specialities
and seasonal dishes ands is used by the locals,
which is a good sign! Take no. 7 bus to the Islen
stop (5 mins away) and then you have a couple
of hundred yards to walk into the village and
the restaurant. Buses to Islen at 6.47, 7.20,
8.20, returning 8.38, 9.38, 10.38, 11.38 p.m.
GASTHAUS ZUM TSCHUGGEN at 7260 Davos Dorf (tel:
081 416 14 82). This is about 7km out of town,
up beyond Pischa. Does ä la carte and Grisons
specialities and again is popular with the locals.
Describes itself as “rustical restaurant
in Walser style”. It order to find out what
that means and what it’s like will require
a taxi, as unfortunately it is beyond the range
of the buses. N.B. Closed on Wednesdays &
Thursdays.
BERGFUHRER at 7272 Sertig Dorfli (tel: 081 417
66 39) – see below. N.B. Another one that
requires a taxi as buses don’t run there
in the evening.
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Book in advance. Tel:
(0) 081 413 53 55
Don’t foget to take a Topcard or Guest Card.
You can then buy a return ticket from Clavadel
– Sertig (9.80 SF).
Take bus no. 8 from opposite Davos Platz railway
station. You can get there either by walking down
between the two houses opposite the Club Hotel,
down a very hazardous path, or by walking to Fopp
Tower beside the Co-op and using their lift.
For early lunch, take the 12.00 bus, which arrives
at Sertig Dorfli (the first stop in Sertig) at
12.28. Return on the 2.32, which gets you back
to Alberti at 2.52. (The Club Hotel is 100 yds
up on the left.) If you miss this bus you have
a two hour wait till the next!
For a later lunch, catch the 2.00, arriving at
2.21. Return on the 4.32, arriving at Alberti
at 4.52 p.m.
Alternatively you can use a taxi: 10 SF each way
per person.
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There is a good choice of local specialities both
to eat and drink. Here are a few from their menu:
(6) Hausgemachte Gerstensuppe – 8.90 SFr.
A mess tin of barley and vegetable soup, served
since 1882 apparently, and still remarkably warming.
(58) Hausgermachte Bauernbratwurst mit Zwiebeln
und Butterrosti – 16.90 SFr. Local sausage,
onion sauce and a basic rosti.
(60) Kurblis Gnocchi – 15.50 SFr. Little
pumpkin dumplings with a cream sauce
(56) Wienerli sausages mit senf – 7.20 SFr.
A pair of small but tasty sausages with mustard
(optional sachet). Not enough on its own, but
you could have a Green salad (8.20 SFr) or get
together with someone having the Gnocchi and share.
(77) Puschlaver Pizzocar – 16.80 SFr.
Gnocchi with finely chopped vegetables, bacon
and light cheese sauce.
(50) Heisser Beinschlinken mit Kartoffel und grunensalat
– 18.20 SFr.
Gammon steak with potatoes and green salad.
There is a good array of desserts, if you have
both the time and room (remember to watch the
clock…). Potato cake (with dark chocolate
covering) and a giant-sized chocolate mousse come
particularly recommended. Ask for advice on the
local wines and be sure to have their home-made
Roteli with your coffee. This is naturally fermented
cherries and is something between a liqueur and
a schnapps – so not too sweet.
We were served by a very friendly English-speaking
Dutchman. Apparently he learnt to speak English
by watching endless episodes of Fawlty Towers….
(but don’t worry, it doesn’t show).
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Before getting back
on the bus, have a look at the lovely little church
opposite and take in the atmosphere, complete
with odour of local livestock. Intrepid langlaufers
may like to be dropped off at Muhle or Clavadel
to work off their lunch. From Muhle to the hotel
takes about one and a half hours, so I am told.
January 2003.
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